Ærthegn Questoris Knights finished for Adeptus Titanicus

 I recently finished up a squad of Questoris Knights for the Games Workshop game Adeptus Titanicus.

The Forge of Mars Method

I discovered this excellent method to create wonderfully finished Adeptus Titanicus models created by the prolific Forge of Mars. Check it out.

1. I primed the models with a light coat of Duplicolor Sandable Primer Black, then I gave them a prime of GW Leadbelcher spray.
2. I drybrushed the model with Vallejo Model Air Chrome.
3. Then I hit the red plates with one part ProAcryl Burnt Red, one part PA Bold Pyrrole Red, and two parts water. This made it almost a glaze as it was very thin.  I quickly brushed it onto the appropriate plates.
4. For the black plates I used PA Dark Warm Gray 1:1 water.
5. Then an all-over wash with GW Agrax Earthshade wash.
6. Recolored plates with their thinned colors... may have needed one additional coat. 
7. If any flat areas of metal (like above the head) looked blotchy I repainted it with VMA Chrome and carefully reapplied Agrax Earthshade.
8. Some metal bits had a wash of Army Painter Speedpaints 2.0... such as the hip joints that got AP SP Hardened Leather.
9. Hydrolic leg shafts were painted VMA Chrome.
10. Some cables got AP SP Grim Black.
11. Gold or Bronze bits got metallic paint and then were washed with Agrax Earthshade.
12. Some weapon cables received a wash of AP SP Slaughter Red.
13. Windows were PA Sky Blue with a bit of white to lighten it up.
14. The heat stains on the melta gun were done with stripes (going from base to tip) of AP SP Maize Yellow; Purple Swarm; and Royal Robes over VMA Chrome.
15. The base was edged in Vallejo Game Color Black.
16. Everything was varnished with the dead flat combo of GW Contrast Medium 1:1 AK Interactive Matte Varnish.

The bases were made from some local slate rocks stacked with super glue. Then I sparingly added some Woodland Scenics Small Ballast here and there. Next I globbed on some Citadel Technical Martian Iron Earth to make the cracked earth look. Once that dried I covered everything with thinned PA Burnt Sienna 4:1 PA Ivory. Then GW Reiksland Flesh Shade was washed over everthing, and when dry Agrax Earthshade was added near the base of the rocks. A drybrush of PA Burnt Sienna 1:1 PA Ivory was next. Finally, a light drybrush of PA Golden Brown 1:1 PA Bright Neutral Gray finished the base.

Oh, and I used MicroSol and MicroSet for the heraldry transfers.

It seems like a lot of steps, but it goes quickly. I think I'll do a Warhound next!